December 19, 2012
Cusco, Peru
Here is the beauty and for us one of the lessons of Cusco. Sometimes a place you have only imagined as the necessary stop to get you to your “real” destination has a beauty and magic all it’s own.
We departed the ship and flew from Callou to Cusco. We took altitude medicine because Cusco is 13,000 feet above sea level. You can completely feel your oxygen level very low so we moved slowly and drank lots of water and were…. Great! We arrived at our hotel, dropped our bags, drank some cacoa tea with leaves from the cacao plant, which is supposed to help with the altitude, had a quick bite to eat and were off.
Next we had a tour of the city. Cusco is like a wheel, like Rome Italy , where all roads are spokes that lead to the center square. This is also based on the path of the sun. Below is both a map of Cusco and a calendar from the Incas.
The center is magnificent, charming with little shops and restaurants all around it and a green square in the center. Cusco, or “Navel of the World”, was the capital of the Incan empire.
Before moving on to our adventures here, we must begin with Luz, our guide.
She was one of the kindest, strongest, most gentle, knowledgable, funny, joyous people we have ever met.
She shaped our experience of this magical and transformative trip in a way words cannot describe. She helped us feel safe enough to let our curiousity run wild and hearts be free to explore. There are certain teachers, like both Leo and Finn’s at Rowayton school, Mrs. Malkin and Mrs. Maxwell, that have the ability to shape and foster growth in a way that is filled with enthusiasm and joy and love. We cried at the end of journey when we had to say goodbye. We fell in love with her along with this magical country.
We learned about Pachacutec, (pronounced PAACHA-KOOTIE). He was the most loved, revered, worshipped and last of the Incan kings has statues throughout the city honoring his tremendous contribution to the people. He was great military strategist, leader, engineer and philosopher. He built aqueducts, bridges, paths, agricultural terraces and houses for food called Qolqas. His government distinguished itself through expansion with justice and prosperity for all. He is also responsible for the conception, planning, designing and building one of the 7 wonders of the world: Machu Picchu.
We saw magnificent works of art. When the Spanish took over, those they did not kill and showed an aptitude for art, were forced to create Christian scenes to convert the them to their way of thinking and try to rob them of their identity. As well as to act as “Christian propeganda
The most famous sculpture in Cusco was crafted by the indigenous people.The Spaniards made them carve a rendering of Jesus on the cross having never seen a likeness of Jesus before they made him dark brown, like themselves. Because they could not imagine a kind and loving Jesus being the same color as the Spaniards that had slaughtered most of them. The Spaniards put this carving in a box and never touched until…
many many years later when the Spanish were gone there were a series of lasting earthquakes that did not stop. The after shocks were causing massive damage and would not stop. For four days they paraded every religious relics they could find around the city to appease whatever god they had angered. It wasn’t until they found and uncreated the dark brown Jesus and paraded him around the town that the earthquakes abruptly stopped.
The Spanish invaders considered the indigenous people half human, half beast so they would not allow them to worship in the same church. -We visited both an indigenous church and a Spanish cathedral.
Though the cathedral was much more grand with more artwork and guided everything, the indigenous church was deeply artistic and beautiful. There was a cedar tree trunk 6 feet around by 20 feet high that had intricately carved designs and biblical scenes carved in relief. After the artist had completed this massive work, the Spaniards killed him. Never wanting the beauty of this piece to be equalled.
Oh and did we mention the LLAMAS!?!?!?
They are EVERYWHERE. Leo and Finny had the chance to get “up close and personal” with more than a few.
The dogs were fantastic. All different breeds! They were seemingly nomadic but incredibly well fed and had amazing amounts of character.
That night for dinner we ate at Tunupo Restaurant. They had good food but an amazing band that played Peruvian music and had colorfully costumed men and women dancers that seemed to be telling a story about the changing of the seasons and LOVE.
-And it seems that Finny has finally found himself.
🙂
Travel Safe!
JKLM
Next: Machu Picchu
leo and finn go to south america! 